SANGSIT TEMPLE
Sangsit Temple the temples of North
Bali differ from those in the south. Instead of the small shrines and
meru towers of southern temples, a single pedestal, built on a terraced
stone base, furnishes the inner courtyard. Often, the pedestal supports
a padmasana, throne of the sun god, and sacred "houses" to store
relics and serve as a resting place for deities during temple festivals.
Next to the classical lines of southern decoration, North Balinese carving
is forcefully baroque.
Every crevice of the temple proper is gaily carved in curves, flames,
arabesques and spirals, cascading a light ebullience everywhere. A fine
example of the northern style is Pura Beji in Sangsit, a subak temple
dedicated to Dewi Sri, goddess of agriculture. Nagat snakes form the balustrade
of the fine gateway.
Fantastic physiognomies of imaginary beasts and devilish guardians peer
from the entangled flora, deliberately cocked at an angle to throw the
facade slightly off balance. This dynamic asymmetry continues in the inner
sanctuary. Jawless birds, fierce tigers and sunflowers project from every
part of the pedestal.
Rows of stone towers jut up from the terraces, forming a labyrinth of
pink sandstone. To counterbalance the overpowering decor, the courtyard
is spacious and decorated with only a few frangipani trees.
The North Balinese sculptural style with its caricatural tendency is found
on other temples in the area-besides on the temples mentioned at Sangsit,
Jagaraga and Kubutambahan-for example, on temples at Bungkulan and Bebetin.
As you drive along the north coast road, also keep your eyes open for
wooden split drums or kulkuls which are carved with a human head on top.
For some reason they are rarely found in South Bali. Examples may be seen
at Bungkulan (the village past Sangsit), dt Kubutambahan, and the finest
of all at Tejakula.
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